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Shine and poverty of Koktebel: 140-anniversary from the birthday of Maximilian Voloshin

In Koktebel with great pomp celebrated the 140th anniversary from the birthday of Maximilian Voloshin. The famous poet and artist became a kind of talisman Crimean holiday village. In the early twentieth century the poet’s house was a Mecca for intellectuals. Voloshin visited Marina Tsvetaeva, Nikolai Gumilev, Alexei Tolstoy, Osip Mandelstam, Kuzma Petrov-Vodkin, Vikenty Veresayev, Mikhail Bulgakov…

Special correspondent of “MK” went through voloshinski.

The house-Museum of Maximilian Voloshin in Koktebel, like a ship. Photo: Oleg Efremov

The flowing lines of the hills with Prairie grasses, bizarre ancient rocks of the Karadag, the mild climate… no Wonder the poet, painter, literary critic, translator Maximilian Voloshin has chosen this region. And a house near the surf built in the shape of a ship. Spacious terraces reminiscent of the deck. There is a bridge . On the tower located on the roof, in full, read their poems Marina Tsvetaeva, and Maxim Gorky recited “Song of the Falcon”, and Mikhail Bulgakov have presented chapters from the novel “heart of a Dog”.

His home in the Bay Koktebel Maximilian Voloshin turned into free hotel-club for people in the arts. For the season the estate had about 600 people: scientists, writers, artists, actors, aviators… It is here that Marina Tsvetaeva met her husband Sergei Efron.

To receive guests, Voloshin was selling his watercolor paintings. Parted with the paintings without regret, calling it the “way of the artist in the world.”

A tour of the house Voloshin showed us the artist Sergey Tsigal, the widower of the people’s artist of Russia Lyubov Polishchuk. His grandmother, a writer-writer Marietta Shahinian, has been a frequent visitor in the house of Maximilian Voloshin, and then for 500 rubles — worth in those years, shoes — bought in the neighbourhood of the Bulgarian house.

Here, on the box in front of the entrance to the shop Voloshin, I was sleeping in the basket, — says Sergey. In March 1950 I 4 month, brought to Koktebel from Moscow, the widow of Maximilian Voloshin, Maria Ivanovna, which our family of friends. I had an eye problem, was clogged tear ducts. Eyes pick, I can lose it. Mary said to mom: “Give me the grandson come on, grandma, we’ll find a cure”. For three days I washed the eye. Don’t know did the miraculous hands of Marousi, sea or salty air, but soon I started crying. So I Koktebel, and eyes saved.

In recognition of the Tsigal, Mary became for him like a grandmother. Here he went to the village school in the first grade, but studied only the first quarter. And when he arrived in Moscow for a long time wondered why they are in school at recess do not give grapes. In Koktebel the farm, who ruled over the school, constantly brought the kids fruit.


photo: Svetlana Finds
Knowing the love of the poet and artist to the stones, all bear on the grave of Voloshin on the bizarre rock.

In the summer the whole family Shahinian–Tsigal returned to Koktebel.

— My mother caught Maximilian Voloshin. He was thoroughly gifted man: a fine artist, critic, thinker, Creator. But also brilliantly mastered the carpenter’s tool. For example, he made a Bureau Alexey Tolstoy, who worked standing.

There is a legend that it was in the house Voloshin Alexey Tolstoy drew attention to standing on the shelf of the wooden man. It was he who inspired the writer in the literary processing of the Italian fairy tale by Carlo Collodi. Soon the fairy tale “the Golden key, or adventures Buratino”.

In Voloshin’s house still smells of the sea and steppe grasses. In vases are favorite flowers of the poet — Lunaria, like silver rubles. Of particular value is the master library of 10 thousand books. In times poet anyone could come to borrow a book, sitting on the couch to read. However, to take books out of the house Voloshin was not allowed. He was even accused of greed that Voloshin has noticed: “It is a sacred greed”.

The poet and the artist was a man of shocking. Wanting to blend in with the scenery, strolled through the village in the Greek chiton and a wreath of wormwood. However, each of the guests upon arrival, immediately appeared in the wardrobe of his long linen shirt or other costume. Creators, calling itself on the rest “blockheads tribe”, not only were the scientific and cultural debate, but also arranged all sorts of sweepstakes and literary hoaxes. Guests Voloshin differed loose morals, but not order, but disorder.

And now the 140-anniversary from the birthday of Maximilian Voloshin said fun, creative and outside the box. Right in the garden under the shade we set up a table. Among tamarisks, Acacias and ash trees young actors played the multimedia performance “the Lessons of literature. Reader Maximilian Voloshin” which was made laureate of the TEFI Director Felix Mikhailov.

It seemed that standing garden bronze Voloshin also a part of the performance.

The poetic mood of the evening was supported by the artists of Moscow theaters under the sound of the surf read poems by Voloshin and Tsvetaeva.

Guests of the evening were TV presenter Arina Sharapova, actress Anna Terekhova, Elena Zakharova, Jan Arshavskaya.

— I’m standing on the terrace of the house Voloshin with a sinking heart, — admitted “MK” honoured artist of Russia Anna Terekhova. — Repeat the lines of the poet: “Go out on the roof. Kneel on four sides, placed the palm of… the Sun… the Water… the Clouds… the Fire…” They fall into the heart. Here you can feel the spirit Voloshin. This place has a magical attraction. Here you really want to go back, walk the steps of the house of the Master in silence.

— I starred in “Seraphim beautiful” in the neighborhood, in Feodosia, but only now I managed slowly to get acquainted with the places where he lived and worked Maximilian Voloshin, says the movie and theatre actress Elena Zakharova. — The house of the poet retains the mystery and charm of the Silver age. I felt like I plunged into the past…

When it comes to talking about the fact that many actors are afraid to go to the Crimea, so as not to get in “black lists” the security service of Ukraine, Olena Zakharova says:

— I treat this philosophically. I, of course, it’s a shame that I may now not gonna be in a neighboring state. And I love Kiev, its temples and people. But I hope that reason will prevail after all and these restrictions will be removed.

— I’m actually a man of peace, says in turn Anna Terekhova. — I did not come here for performances, and above all to the people, the Crimeans, who are not to blame. And I believe that art should not divide but unite people.

Maximilian Voloshin, known to have been a pacifist. Hid and white, and red, and monarchists. On the evening flowed memories of the master, classical music, cognac…


“Aesthetic appearance” the coachman said about Voloshin in life. Photo: Oleg Efremov

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But the anniversary date of the poet and artist have given occasion to remind about the problems of Koktebel, and the House-Museum of Maximilian Voloshin in particular.

— A large number of real estate, which was part of the Museum complex, in Ukrainian, no gangster was seized and transferred into private hands, — the Chairman of the Public chamber of the Republic of Crimea Grigory Ioffe. — Near the poet’s house was the House of creativity of writers of the RSFSR, which due to certain circumstances, and the position of Yeltsin in particular, was transferred to Ukraine. Property complex located on 8 acres, began to sell off. It is, in fact, was a massive and cynical looting. Some of the buildings passed into private hands. The most glaring of what was taken away and privatized the house is Great (the Mother of the Great close called the mother Voloshin Elena Octoballoon. — Ed.). Was trials. Today business moved from a dead point. I think that soon we will be able to return this property in the composition of the House-Museum of Voloshin.

The second point. The Museum complex is not accessible. The promenade, which adjoins the Museum is a pedestrian zone. As for the back side of all thoroughfare crammed with illegally built buildings and fences. And no this is nothing to do.

Grigory Ioffe said that the Ukrainian times the power in the village and in the Crimea, Voloshin was regarded as a person who is alien to Ukrainian culture, although the poet and artist was Ukrainian roots. (It should be noted that the Soviet party elite don’t really complain nonpartisan Voloshin. His poems passed from hand to hand, printed in samizdat.)

— For the whole of Russia Koktebel — a sacred place. The village requires a special relationship. But there is still no sewage treatment plants. And this despite the fact that a huge number of entrepreneurs randomly has built a lot of hotels and restaurants — said Grigory Ioffe.

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Everyone coming to Koktebel is trying to climb to the tomb of Maximilian Voloshin, which is located on the top of the mountain Kuchuk-Yanyshar. The master himself pointed out this place. To go among the fields of poppies and feather forty minutes. The poet asked not to plant on his grave no trees, no shrubs. He loved this land for its natural beauty. But nature has done its job. Somehow on top of the mountain got prune pit. And now about gravestones grows wild plum.

Next to the Master rests his second wife, a loyal friend, Maria Stepanovna Voloshin, Mary.

— We with the father dug her grave, — says the artist Sergey Tsigal. Mary during the life asked his father: “Victor, dig diagonally so I was lying closer to Masenka” — so she called her husband. The coffin with her body was standing in the dining room. I was up all night about Marousi read the Psalms. Then father put on the grave of the two large stone.

Knowing the love of the poet and artist to the stones, all bear on the grave of Voloshin on the bizarre rock. Often they write on the pebbles brought lines from his poems, and even make wishes. One of the messages read: “Pray for us all.” Looks like it really needs right now koktebelica.

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